Fabric: 2m (150cm)Buttons, small, nineFusible interfacing, 50cm
Fold the fabric so that the selvedge is in the centre, with folded fabric at either side.Front: cut twoBack: cut one on the foldBack yoke: cut two on the foldCollar: cut two on the fold of fabric and one on the fold of fusible interfacingNeckband: cut two on fold of fabric and one on the fold of fusible interfacingCuff: cut two of fabric and one of fusible interfacingSleeve: cut two, refold fabric with selvedge together and fold at one side1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
Download the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. With right side facing, stitch the centre back pleat to the dot. Position the pleat so that it is equal to either side of the stitching line and press flat. Pin one back yoke piece right sides together checking that the centre back of the yoke piece is in line with the centre back pleat stitching line. Pin the right side of the yoke lining to the wrong side of the back in the same position and stitch through all of the layers. Press the seam towards the neck on both sides.
Cut two 2cm wide strips of fusible interfacing the length of the front and iron on to the wrong side of each front to the first fold line. Fold to the first fold line and press, then to the second fold line and press to form the front button band. Stitch in place close to the edge.
With right sides together pin and stitch the front to the back yoke at the shoulder. Then swivel the front so that the back yoke lining is in position at the shoulder and stitch in place following the first stitching line. Press the seam allowance towards the back. The yoke should now enclose the shoulder seam. Apply fusible interfacing to one collar piece and one neckband piece.
Pin and stitch the collar around the outside edge with right sides together, leaving the notched edge open. Trim the seam and turn the collar right side out, then press all of the edges and the collar point. Pin or tack the open edge of the collar together. Pin the collar to one of the neckband pieces, right sides together, matching centre back and notches, then position and pin the other neckband piece to the other side of the collar to match. The collar should be sandwiched between the two neckband pieces. Stitch around the neckband through all of the layers. Clip the curves, trim the seam and turn the neckband to the right side. Press the neckband away from the collar and press the curved edge of the neckband.
Decide which is going to be the right side of the collar and neckband, then pin that side to the neckline of the shirt matching the centre back and the notches and positioning the end of the neckband over the top of the buttonband. The edge of the neckband should meet the edge of the button band. Stitch in place. Trim the seam and press towards the collar. Fold under the remaining neckband edge on the inside of the shirt along the seam line and either machine or handstitch in place. Press the finished neckband.
Mark one buttonhole in the neckband and six more down the front of the shirt. Make the holes and stitch on the buttons. With right sides together pin the sleeves in position matching the shoulder, front and back notches. Ease where necessary and stitch. Trim and zigzag the seam allowance or use an overlocker to neaten the seam. Press the seam towards the sleeve.
Pin the underarm sleeve seam and the side seam of the shirt, matching notches and lining up the sleeve seam at the underarm. Stitch from the end of the sleeve to the hem edge of the shirt. Neaten the seam. Press the seam towards the back. A sleeve roll is useful here.
Apply the fusible interfacing to each cuff piece up to the fold line. Fold each cuff in half, right sides together and stitch each end. Trim the seam and turn the cuff to the right side. Press the edges and the points of the cuffs. Make a buttonhole in each of the cuffs. Overlap the cuffs to the marked position. The buttonhole should be on the top of each cuff, one facing left and one right. Position the cuffs at the end of the sleeve so that the centre of the overlap is level with the marked place on the sleeve. With right sides together, pin and stitch the cuff to the end of the sleeve. Neaten the seam and press away from the cuff. Sew on the button. Fold the cuff in half to create the turnup and press again. Turn up a narrow hem at the bottom of the shirt and stitch.