Willow A-Line Skirt – Free sewing patterns

Essentials

Fabric, 1.2m (112cm)Contrast fabric, 30cmCurved Petersham ribbonConcealed zip, 23cm

Cutting guide

Front skirt: cut one on the foldBack skirt: cut one pairPocket: cut one pair in contrast fabric1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.

Dimensions List

Sizes 8-20

1 Download and cut out the pattern. Turn the top pocket over along the fold line and sew down the corner nearest to the centre front on both pockets. Trim the bulk from the corners, then turn the pocket facings back to the wrong side. Adjust the machine to a larger stitch, then make a row of stitching along the seam line, 1.5cm away from the cut edge.

2 Pull the threads of the stitching line up slightly, this will help the edge of the pockets roll over to the wrong side in a consistent line, making a smooth curve at the base corners. When you are happy with how the seam allowance sits, press the edge of the fold and trim away the bulk from the curved corners.

3 Sew the pockets to the front of the skirt, positioned to the notches indicated on the side seams of the pattern. Pin in place and edgestitch the pockets, nearest to the centre front and across the base. Neaten the edges by overlocking or zig zagging the side seam edges and the centre back seam edges. The edges of the pockets will be neatened along with the side seams.

4 Stitch the darts at the top of the back skirt and press towards the centre back. Sew the centre back seam together from the hem edge, as far as the notch for the zip opening; back-tack to reinforce the end of this seam. Stitch the front and back skirts together at the side seams and press all the seams open.

5 Stitch the concealed zip into the centre back opening using a regular or concealed zipper foot. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the side opening. Open out the seam allowance and with right side facing, place the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance. Pin in place.

6 If you are using a concealed zipper foot, place the teeth of the zip into the groove and as you sew the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will appear alongside. If you are sewing with a normal zipper foot, you will need to uncurl the teeth with your fingertips and stitch to the top of the side seam. Back-stitch and secure the other side of the zip in place. Thread the zip pull through to the right side and tug up to close.

7 Stitch the inside edge of the curved Petersham to the top of the skirt; this will enable the longer outside edge to follow the flare of the side seam. Edgestitch the Petersham onto the right side of the top of the skirt. Leave excess Petersham at the two ends above the zip; these edges can then be folded back on themselves and the Petersham folded inside the top of the skirt.

8 Press in place and hand-stitch the folded ends to the edge of the zip and catch it on the side seams to prevent it from rolling out. Turn up and hand-sew the hem. Overlock or zig zag a base of the skirt and press up the 4cm hem. Hand-stitch the pressed hem in place.