Fabric, 2m (150cm)Lightweight fusible interfacingConcealed zip, 22cmHook and eye
Follow the diagram at sewmag.co.uk to calculate the shape. Fold the fabric, selvedge to selvedge, then cut out one piece on the fold.Cut a 9cm wide fabric strip the same length as your waist measurement, adding an extra 3.2cm for the seam allowance.Cut another in fusible interfacing.1.6cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
1 Download and print the diagram from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Fuse interfacing to the waistband, then neaten one long edge of it with zig zag stitch or an overlocker. Lay the two cut edges of the skirt together, right sides facing, then stitch down the entire length of the seam, leaving a 20cm gap at the top to insert the zip. Press the seams open. Lay the waistband around the edge of the waistline, right side facing, and stitch in place.
2 Sew the concealed zip into the back opening using a zipper foot; the zip top will run into the front half of the waistband. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the back opening. Open out the seam allowance and, with right sides facing, place the open zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance, and pin in place. If you are stitching with a normal zipper foot, you will need to uncurl the teeth with your fingertips first.
3 Leave 2.5cm of the zip base un-stitched, back-stitch, then sew the other side of the zip in place. Thread the zip pull through to the right side and pull up to close. Turn in the seam allowance at the ends of the waistband, then turn the neatened edge of the waistband inside the skirt; the folded edges will lay beside the zip, sandwiching it inside the waistband. Hand-stitch it to the inside edge of the zip.
4 Pin the waistband onto the right side of the skirt, then finish by stitching in the ditch; this refers to the seam between the skirt and the waistband. The skirt will need to hang up for at least a day to let the fabric settle; the hem will likely become uneven and will need to be levelled again by trimming away excess length. Sew a rolled hem around the bottom of the skirt, then stitch a hook and eye to the ends of the waistband, above the top of the zip.