Main fabric, width x 1.1mLining, 50cmFusible interfacingConcealed zip, 23cmGold buttons, twoHook and bar
Waist measurements:Small, 68cmMedium, 72cmLarge, 76cm
Main fabricFront skirt: cut one on foldBack skirt: cut one pairPocket: cut one pairPocket flap: cut one pairWaistband: cut oneLiningPocket: cut one pairPocket flap: cut one pairWaistband: cut oneInterfacingWaistband: cut oneUse a 5mm seam allowance for pocket and pocket flap, and 1.5cm for the rest of the skirt.
1 Go online to sewmag.co.uk/templates to download and print the pattern. Cut the pieces out, referring to the cutting guide. Position the pocket flap linings over the face of the pocket flaps, and pin in place. Using a 5mm seam allowance, stitch around the edge, leaving the long straight edge open. Trim the bulk from the corners, turn right sides out and press.
2 Position the flaps on the face of the pockets using the notches as a guide. Lay the lining over the top, sandwiching the flap between the two pocket layers. Stitch all the layers together on the straight edge. Open out the lining and the pockets with the flap laying underneath the pocket, under stitch along the seam on the lining side. Fold the pocket lining back over the face of the pocket, stitch around the curved part of the pocket, leaving the small straight area at the top and side of the pocket open. Turn the pocket to the right side through the top of the pockets. Tease out the seams and press flat. Position the pockets onto the skirt front and edge stitch in place.
3 Lay the back skirt pieces together, with right sides facing. Pin and stitch the back seam together from the end of the zip notch and the top of the pleat indicated by a dot. Stitch a concealed zip into the centre back opening using a zip foot. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the side opening.
4 With the right side of the fabric facing, open out the seam allowance and place the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance. Pin in place. If using a concealed zip foot, place the teeth of the zip into the groove and as you sew the foot will uncurl the teeth, allowing the stitching to appear alongside. If using a normal zip foot, you will need to uncurl the teeth with your fingertips; stitch to the top of the side seam. Back stitch then sew the other side of the zip in place. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side and pull up to close.
5 Match the front and back skirt pieces together, pin and stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press open. Fuse the interfacing to the waistband lining, lay it on top of the face of the waistband, and pin. Stitch the two together along the top of the waistband. Neaten the remaining long edge of the fabric waistband by either overlocking or zig zag stitch.
6 Make two rows of gathering stitches around the top of the skirt. Pull up the threads to fit the waistband between the hook extension and the 1.5cm seam allowance on the right-hand end. Distribute the gathers evenly. Pin in place leaving the hook extension protruding from the top centre back seam, then stitch together. Fold the waistband on the right side of the skirt and seal the waistband by stitching the seam between the gathers and the waistband on the right side of the skirt.
7 Overlock or zig zag the base of the skirt and press up the 2.5cm hem. Fold and press the left-hand side pleat along the centre back line, the right-hand side of the pleat will be laying underneath. Fold the hem back onto the right side of the skirt on the corner of the pleat and stitch close to the edge along the end of the hem. Turn the hem back onto the wrong side. Turn the left-hand side of the pleat fold onto the right side of the skirt then stitch along the fold line made when pressing the hem. Turn the hem and the pleat back to the wrong side. Machine stitch the top of the pleat to the back of the skirt. Hand stitch the pressed hem with a hemming stitch.
8 To finish, hand stitch a hook and bar to the ends of the waistband. Sew a button onto the point of each pocket flap for a decorative touch.