Laminate fabric, 150cm wide x 2.3mLining fabric, 40cmStud fastenings, sevenMatching threadHemming web
Front coat: cut one pairBack coat: cut one on foldFront facing: cut one pair in fabricSleeve: cut one pairCollar: cut one pair in fabricHood: cut one pair in fabric and one pair in lining
1 Visit www.sewmag.co.uk/templates to download and print the pattern. Cut out the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. With right sides together, match and pin the shoulder seams together and stitch. Match the two collar pieces with right sides together, pin and stitch. Trim the bulk from the corners, turn to the right side and press, covering the collar with a pressing cloth.
2 Match the centre back neck and the centre of the neck edge of the collar and pin. Clip into the seam allowance around the neck of the coat. Match the front edges of the collar to the notches on the front coat and pin in place. Continue pinning the remainder of the collar. At the shoulder point, make a 1.5cm cut into the inner collar on the neck edge and pin this back neck part up into the collar away from the seam. Stitch in place. Turn the pinned part inside the collar, aligning this edge with the stitching line at the back neck, then pin and edge stitch in place.
3 With the right sides of the facings and the front coat together, match and pin in place; the front part of the collar will be sandwiched between the coat and the facing. Stitch from the shoulder, around the neck, down the front edge and across the base of the facing. Repeat on the remaining facing. Trim the bulk from the corners, and turn to the right side and press.
4 Match and pin the back and front side seams together, stitch then press the seam open. Next, attach the sleeves by adjusting the stitch length to a large gathering version and sew one row within the seam allowance at the top of the sleeves between the notches. Match, pin and stitch the sleeve seams together, making a tube and easing the fullness between the two notches in this seam.
5 Pull the gathering threads slightly to tighten the heads of the sleeves to fit the armholes, match the notches in the armhole and the sleeves (two notches indicate the back of the sleeve), then match these to the back bodice. Pin the sleeves in place, then stitch. Fold and press up 3cm hems at the base of the sleeves and use hemming web and a pressing cloth to fasten in place Turn and press up the 3cm hem at the base of the coat in line with the base of the front facings, using hemming web to fasten in place.
6 With the right sides of the hood pieces facing, sew around the long curved edge. Repeat for the lining pieces, leaving a gap in the stitching line towards the front of the hood. Turn the hood lining to the right side then place inside the fabric hood, matching the straight front edges together. Pin, then stitch in place. Fold the front edge of the fabric hood along the fold and cutting line marked on the pattern, pushing the lining further inside the hood and allowing the unstitched neck edges to marry up. Pin the neck edges together and stitch in place. Clip the seam allowance and turn the hood right side out through the gap in the lining. Slip stitch the gap closed by hand and press.
7 Attach four stud fasteners in place down the coat front, then secure three to attach the hood: one centre back underneath the collar and one underneath the two front edges of the collar. Attach the other side of the studs to the corresponding points on the hood.