Fabric, 2m (150cm)Fusible interfacing, heavyweightConcealed zip, 12in
Front skirt: cut one on the foldBack skirt: cut one pairUpper side front: cut one pairLower side front: cut one pairWaistband: cut one in main fabric, plus one half the width in fusible interfacingUse 1.5cm seam allowances throughout unless otherwise stated.Neaten the skirt edges where specified using overlocking or zig zag stitch.
1 Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Make the pleats using the notches on the top of the back skirt piece, folding towards the centre back, then pin and stitch across the top. Match the back pieces with right sides facing through the centre back. Pin and stitch as far as the zip notch, then press the seam open.
2 Fold the pocket bag parts of the lower front pieces over to the wrong side, following the fold line indicated on the pattern, then press the folds. Lay the lower pieces on top of the pocket bag part of the upper side skirt, so that the base edges of the bags match. Pin and sew the base edges and neaten the allowances, then pin the edges of the bags and stitch.
3 Match the side pieces to the front, checking the notches match with the seams. Pin and sew, so that the edges of the pocket bags are sandwiched into the seam. Neaten the allowance, then press the seams towards the centre front. Fold the pleats into the top and stitch. Pin the side edges, right sides together, then sew. Neaten the allowances and press the seams to the back.
4 Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband, using a pressing cloth and plenty of steam. Neaten one of the long sides, then position the waistband along the waistline of the skirt, checking the raw edges match and the centre back is in line with the centre edges of the gap for the zip. Pin in place, then stitch.
5 Sew the concealed zip into the centre back opening and stitch up half the waistband, using a zipper or concealed zipper foot. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the opening, then open out the allowance. With right sides together, place the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the allowance, then pin.
6 If you’re using a concealed zipper foot, place the zip teeth into the groove; as you stitch, the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will appear alongside them. If you use a normal zipper foot, uncurl the teeth with your fingertips. Sew to the top of the side seam, back-stitch, then sew the other side of the zip. Thread the pull to the right side and close.
7 Fold the waistband in half lengthways inside the skirt, tucking the centre back seam allowances over the edges of the zip; these sections can be hand-stitched. Pin the waistband on the right side of the skirt. Stitch in the seam between the pleat at the top and the band on the right side of the skirt. Neaten the hem, press 2.5cm