Plain or printed fabric, 140cm wideFusible lightweight interfacingButtons, fourCoordinating sewing thread
Stitch a skirt
1 Measure the length you would like the skirt to be, adding 4cm for the hem and 1.5cm for a seam allowance around the waistline. Cut two pieces the full width of the fabric to this measurement.
2 Cut one piece in half widthways, this will become the centre front opening of the skirt. Snip two 4cm wide strips of fusible interfacing to the length of the skirt and fuse these to the short edges.
3 For the waistband, take a waist measurement adding 2.5cm ease, plus 4cm for the overlap on the centre front opening of the skirt. Cut a strip of fabric to this measurement 9cm wide, then fuse interfacing of the same size to the piece.
4 Neaten one long edge of the waistband by either zig zag stitching or overlocking. Do the same to all the short edges of your pieces, including the remaining larger one which will become the back of the skirt.
5 Place the two front pieces with the opening touching over the longer back piece right sides faces, lining up the side seams. Pin and stitch together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press the seams open, then fold and press the two 4cm interfaced strips on the opening’s edges onto the wrong side of the skirt.
6 Stitch two rows of gathering stitch 5mm apart along the unneatened top edge of the skirt. Pull up the threads to gather the fabric until it measures the same as the waistband, minus the 4cm overlap allowance. Evenly distribute the gathers.
7 Lay the waistband on top of the gathered edge right sides facing, matching the raw edges. Ensure 1.5cm of the band extends over each end of the skirt fabric. Pin and stitch the two together with a 1.5cm seam allowance.
8 Press the waistband up, away from the skirt, then fold it in half right sides facing and stitch down the excess fabric at each short end. Trim the corners to reduce bulk, then turn the waistband to the right side, pushing the corners into shape. The gathered raw edge should lay up inside the waistband. Pin along the waistband on the right side of the skirt then secure by stitching the seam between the gathers and the waistband on the right side of the skirt.
9 Fold 4cm up at the bottom long edge for the hem. Unfold the hem and the centre front fold, then turn them both back to the wrong side with the hem underneath. Stitch along the centre front fold line on both sides of the opening. Trim away the bulk at both corners. Machine or hand stitch the hem.
10 Measure and mark four positions for the buttonholes, one on the waistband and three more on the right-hand front edge. Make horizontal buttonholes at these points and stitch buttons in the corresponding places on the left-hand placket. Give the skirt a final press to finish.