Jersey fabric, 1.5m (145cm)Elastic, 3cm wideTracing paper (optional)
The diagram has been drafted to fit sizes 10-12 approximately. To alter the pattern to your size, take your hip measurement, add 30cm then divide by 4 – this will be the width of your pattern e.g. hip measurement 92cm + 30cm = 122cm divided by 4 = 36cm. Adjust the length to your requirements. To adjust the waistband, add 9cm to your waist measurement e.g. waist 68cm + 9cm = 77cm.
Note: start by taking your waist and hip measurementsPants (for front/back): cut one pair* on the fold (hip measurement + 30cm, divided by 4) x 95cmWaistband: cut one strip 24cm x (waist measurement + 9cm)Leg cuff: cut two 12cm x 26cm strips*The pants front piece is cut 2cm lower at the top than the backThe following is based on a size 10-12 (92cm hip, 68cm waist).Pants: (92 [hip] + 30cm, ÷ 4 = 30.5*) 30.5cm x 95cm (95cm is length, adjust if needed)Waistband: 24 x (68 [waist] + 9** = 77) 24cm x 77cm * Extra 7.5cm (the +30cm ÷ 4) width on the hip is for ease (6cm), plus seam allowance (1.5cm)** Extra 9cm width on the waistband is for ease (6cm) plus seam allowance (3cm) 1.5cm seam allowance used.
1 Work out your pattern using the diagram and Size guide. Draft onto paper or straight to fabric to cut the pieces, referring to the cutting guide.
2 Fold one pants leg in half lengthways, right sides together, matching the two inside leg edges. Pin, then stitch together with an overlocker or a sewing machine set to a stretch stitch. Repeat the process on the other leg to make the pair.
3 Turn one leg to the right side, place inside the unturned leg and match the crotch edges together, the back crotch being longer than the front. Pin and stitch together in one continuous seam. Set your sewing machine to a long gathering stitch and sew a row around the top of the pants. Pull the thread up to gather the waistline until it fits the length of the waistband strip, distributing the gathers evenly.
4 Cut a length of elastic to your waist measurement plus a 3cm overlap, and stitch the two ends together. Sew the ends of the waistband strip together, then place the ring of elastic in the centre on the wrong side of the jersey waistband ring. Match the join in the elastic to that in the waistband and fold the band in half, concealing the elastic inside. Machine stitch through all layers to hold the elastic in place.
5 Position the waistband at the top of the pants, right sides together, matching the seam in the waistband to the back crotch seam. Pin, then stitch. Overlock or zig zag stitch around the seam, close to the stitching line. The gathering stitch and the machine stitching can then be removed, enabling the waistband to stretch over your hips when you pull the finished pants on.
6 Fold each of the leg cuffs in half, right sides together, matching the 24cm sides. Stitch the two edges together to make tubes and fold each one in half to a 6cm width, matching the raw edges together and sandwiching the seam inside. Gather the base of each leg as for the waistline, then slip the tubes over the end of each leg, matching the raw edges together and ensuring the seam in the cuffs line up with the inside leg seams. Pin, stitch, then fold the cuffs down.