Grace Tunic – Free sewing patterns

Essentials

Fabric, 2m (150cm)Concealed zip, 55cmFusible interfacing, 30cm

Sizes

8-24

Cutting guide

Front: cut one on the foldBack: cut one pairSleeve: cut two pairsPocket: cut two pairsBack neck facing: cut one pair in fabric and one pair in interfacingFront neck facing: cut one on the fold in fabric and one on the fold in interfacing1.5cm seam allowances used throughout, except around the base of the sleeves where 1cm is needed.

Download and cut out the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, stitch darts into the front dress from the sides of the darts to the points. Press them upwards towards the shoulders. With right sides together, match one pair of pockets to the position indicated on the side seam of the pattern, then pin and stitch. Neaten this and the edge of the pocket. Repeat, positioning the remaining pair of pockets to the back pieces.

Stitch the remaining set of front panel pieces to the back neck facing, across the shoulder edges; this will become the collar facing. Press the seams open. Lay the jacket out flat, right side uppermost. Place the facing around the neckline and front edges of the jacket, right sides facing the jacket. Match the shoulder seams, back neckline and front edges together. Sew in place around the neck edge and down the centre-front opening.

Neaten the edges of the centre back seam, then stitch as far as the zip notch from the base of the dress. Sew the concealed zip into the back opening, then press the seam allowance along the two sides. Turn out and, with the right side facing, place the opened zip face down matching the teeth to the crease line. Stitch along one side, leaving 3cm unstitched. Backstitch, then sew the other side. Thread the zip pull to the right side at the top and close.

Match the side seams of the front and back, and around the edges of the pockets, then pin and stitch. Neaten the seam allowances from the under armhole, around the pockets to the base of the dress, pressing towards the front. Sew the underarm sleeve seams, right sides facing on both pairs. Press open, then turn one pair to the right side and place these inside the unturned pair.

Position the underarm seams together, then sew the two sleeves around the base with a 1cm seam allowance. Clip, then take the unturned sleeve out so that you are looking at the right side of both. Press the seam allowance up into one of them to make the sleeve lining, then understitch. Repeat the process on the remaining pair, finishing with one set of lined sleeves.

Sew a row of gathering stitch around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back. Pull the gathering threads up slightly and place the sleeve into the armhole. Match the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeve. Position the notch in the sleeve centre to the one at the end of the shoulder seam, then adjust the gathers to fit the armhole. Pin and stitch in place, then neaten.

Tidy the base of the dress, then fold and press the 3cm hem before handstitching. Turn in the edges of the back neck facing in line with the edge of the zip, then hand slipstitch in place. Secure the edge of the facing to the shoulder seams again with slipstitches.