Laminated fabric, 1.5mLining fabric, 40cmStud fastenings, sevenMatching threadHemming web
Front: cut one pairBack: cut one on foldCollar: cut one pair in fabricBack neck facing: cut one on foldSleeve: cut one pairHood: cut one pair in fabric and one pair in lining1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.
Black line: smallRed line: mediumBlue line: largeNote: check child’s chest measurement against pattern pieces to determine size
1 Download and print the pattern. Cut out the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. With right sides together, match and pin the shoulder seams together and stitch. Match the two collar pieces with right sides together, pin and stitch. Trim the bulk from the corners, turn out to the right side and press, covering the collar with a pressing cloth.
2 Match the centre of the back neck facing and centre of the neck edge of the collar together, then pin. Clip into the seam allowance around the neck. Match the front edges of the collar to the notches on the front coat and pin. Continue pinning the remainder of the collar and stitch in place. Match the shoulder edges at the tops of the front facings to the shoulder edges of the back neck facing. With the fabric right sides together, stitch both shoulder seams.
3 Bring the front and back neck facings back over the neckline, fold the front facing along the fold line marked on the pattern, match and pin in place; the collar will be sandwiched between the coat and the facings. Stitch around the neckline, creating a small step in front of each end of the collar. Trim the bulk from the corners, turn to the right side and press flat with a pressing cloth. Secure the facings to the shoulder seams of the coat with a few hand stitches. Match and pin the back and front side seams together, then stitch. Press the seams open with a pressing cloth.
4 Adjust the stitch length to a large gathering stitch and sew one row within the seam allowance at the top of the sleeves, between the notches. Return to a normal stitch length and match, pin and stitch the sleeves seams together, making two tubes. Pull the gathering threads slightly to tighten the heads to fit the armholes, match the notches in the armhole and the sleeves (the two notches indicate the back of the sleeve). Pin the sleeves in place, then stitch. Fold and press up 3cm hems at the base of the sleeves and use hemming web and a pressing cloth to fasten in place.
5 Turn the facing at the hem edge of each front piece back on itself along the fold line marked on the pattern, measure up the 2cm hem and stitch across at this measurement. Trim the bulk from the corners and turn the facings to the inside of the coat. With a pressing cloth, turn and press up the 2cm hem in line with the base of the front facings, using hemming web to fasten in place.
6 With the right sides of the hood pieces facing, sew around the long curved edge. Repeat for the lining pieces, leaving a gap in the stitching line towards the front of the hood. Turn the hood lining to the right side then place inside the fabric hood, matching the straight front edges together. Pin, then stitch in place. Fold the front edge of the fabric hood along the fold and cutting line marked on the pattern, pushing the lining further inside the hood and allowing the unstitched neck edges to marry up. Pin the neck edges together and stitch in place. Clip the seam allowance and turn the hood right side out through the gap in the lining. Slip stitch the gap closed by hand and press.
7 Attach four stud fasteners in place down the coat front, then secure three to attach the hood: one centre back underneath the collar and one underneath the two front edges of the collar. Attach the other side of the studs to the corresponding points on the hood.