Fabric, 2.5m (150cm)Fusible interfacingButtons, 2cm, 5
Medium-weight wovens with 3% stretch, such as denim, linen or corduroy
Back bodice: cut one on the foldBack shorts: cut twoFront bodice: cut twoPocket: cut fourFront shorts: cut twoSleeve: cut twoTie belt: cut twoCollar: cut two on the fold of fabric and one on the fold of fusible interfacingBack neck facing: cut one on the fold of fabric and one on the fold of fusible interfacingBelt carrier: cut one1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
1 Download the template from, then print and follow the cutting guide. Pin the darts on the front bodice, right sides together, and stitch. Press the dart downwards. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front facing, up to the fold line.
2 Right sides together, pin the front bodice pieces to the back bodice at the shoulder and stitch. Neaten the seam edge and press open. Pin the sleeves in place, right sides together, matching the notches and circles and having the centre circle mark at the shoulder seam. Stitch, then trim and neaten the seam edge. Press the seam towards the sleeve.
3 Apply fusible interfacing to one of the collar pieces. Pin the two collar pieces right sides together. Stitch around the collar, leaving the neck edge free. Trim the seam allowance and turn through to the right side, ensuring that the points of the collar are fully pulled out. Press along the edge. Pin the collar to the neck edge, with the front ends of the collar 2cm from the front fold line. Stitch in place taking a narrow seam within the seam allowance.
4 Pin the back neck facing to the end of the front facing, right sides together and matching the notches. Sew, then trim and press the seam open. Fold the facing section over the top of the collar at the neck edge, right sides together, and pin. Stitch the neckline facing over the collar.
5 Clip the curves and trim the seam allowance. Fold the facing to the inside of the bodice pulling the collar out into position. Understitch the back neck facing in place from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. Press the collar seam and the top of the front facing, and along the fold line of the front.
6 Right sides together, pin the bodice side seam from the edge of the sleeve to the waist edge of the bodice. Stitch, then neaten the seam and press towards the back. Turn up the 2cm hem at the bottom of the sleeve and press, then turn under the raw edge to meet the pressed line. Press again, then stitch.
7 Pin the centre back seam on the back shorts, right sides together, and stitch. Neaten the seam. Press to one side. Right sides together, pin the centre front seam of the shorts to the marked circle and stitch. Neaten the seam and press to one side. Clip the facing to the marked circle on the stitching line.
8 Press the shorts facing on the front, along the fold line. Turn this facing back on itself along the fold line, then stitch across the bottom up to the clipped mark in the stitching. Overlap the right side over the left and sew in place across the bottom.
9 Right sides together, pin the pocket pieces in place on the front and back short pieces. Stitch from the waist to the end of the pocket taking a narrow 5mm seam. Neaten the seam edge and press out towards the pocket. Pin the front and back shorts right sides together at the side seams and around the pocket bags.
10 Stitch from the top of the pockets to where it meets the side seam. Pivot the needle then stitch towards the hem. Neaten the seam edge and press the seam, placing the pocket at the front. At the waist, fold the pocket into position on the front shorts and stitch to hold within the seam allowance.
11 Pin the front and back shorts at the leg seam, right sides together, matching the notches and with the front and back centre seams level. Stitch, then neaten the seam allowance and press towards the back.
12 Fold the belt carrier in half lengthways and press. Open out and press the raw edge to the fold at each side, then fold in half again and press. Stitch down each edge of the carrier. Cut into two equal pieces and fold each piece in half. Pin each folded carrier at the back waist edge, just behind the side seam, and sew in place.
13 Right sides together, pin the bodice section to the shorts. Match the centre back bodice to centre seam of back shorts, the side seams of the shorts and bodice, and the facing fold lines on front bodice and shorts, then stitch. Neaten and press the seam allowance.
14 Neaten the facing edge all the way around the bodice and shorts sections using an overlocker or zig zag stitch. Hand stitch the front facing to the waist seam allowance at each side with a few stitches and again the back neck facing at the shoulder seam to secure.
15 Press the belt carriers flat and hand stitch in place, making sure that half of each carrier is stitched to the bodice section above the waistline and half is stitched onto the shorts section below the waist. Make the buttonholes where indicated and sew on the buttons to match.
16 Pin the belt pieces at the straight edge, right sides together, and stitch together. Trim the seam and press open. Fold the belt in half lengthways, right sides together. Pin, then stitch, taking a narrow 5mm seam allowance and leaving a turning gap near the centre seam.
17 Turn through to the right side and press. Close the turning gap. Try on the garment and check the hemline – a 4cm hem has been allowed. Press the turned up hem and neaten the edge using zig zag stitch or overlocker, then stitch in place.